By creating Killiecrankie House, not only are Tom and Matilda Tsappis living the dream – escaping London to pursue their own passions (and doing it well) – they have also created a foodie idyll nestled in the Cairngorms. Think of it as a weekend away at the country bolthole of some rich friends with impeccable taste (albeit, you have to pay). The whole experience is a well-thought-out, artfully curated one: from the interior design (comfy chalet chic), with the record player and vinyl so you can choose whatever music fits your mood, to the expansive cookbook collection that encourages you to sit on the comfy sofa whilst sipping your excellent cocktail. It’s not a sterile tick box, Michelin playbook experience; it’s quite a personal one and in that, it’s special and rare.
Tom’s lack of classical training (apart from Leith’s) should not preclude him from success; it puts me in mind of Mikael Jonsson who trod a less well-known route. Hedone, too, was a passion project and look how well that did. Certainly, compared to other fine dining restaurants in Scotland which are classically French in their heritage and technique, the cooking at Killiecrankie has a definite nod to Japan. This is where the Tsappis’ interests lie, Tom having worked there in the finance world (fortunately he is no stereotypical finance bro; he is funny and personable) and Matilda having family from there.
It is a commitment in terms of time, travel and cost but it is one worth making
The format is a succession of 15 small dishes (each a bite) – a format which I first came across at L’Enclume in 2011, and whose DNA is evident not only in the plating but in the beautiful hand carved chargers by Luke Hope from Hope in the Woods. The food is also beautifully plated, delicate and delicious: one area Tom excels in is his palate; it allows for clever and less obvious combinations of flavours such as coffee and pumpkin, and liquorice and bramble. The result is a fun, tasty, interesting journey through Tom’s imagination utilising local ingredients (venison, seaweed, cheese) plus his own in house made dashi, miso and tofu. Again, like L’Enclume, Forest Side and Pine there are plans to utilise the grounds of the house to the full extent; a smokehouse, bee hives and a root cellar, further cementing the local terroir into Tom’s cooking.
Matilda is worthy of mention in her own right. Over the years it’s been heartening to see a growing number of accomplished female sommeliers whom I’ve enjoyed interacting with (Vanessa Stoltz at Pine; Tara Ozols previously of Sola, now at Dovetale). Matilda embodies all you want in a sommelier – she is passionate, knowledgeable, personable but most of all wants you to be happy and won’t stop until she has found something to make you smile. With the introductory and certified sommelier exams under her belt, I’m sure it won’t be long before she joins the ranks of Master Sommelier.
The bar area where coffee, petits fours (freshly baked madeleines with wonderful woodruff Chantilly cream – more places should do this!), sake/cocktails are served, deserves its own mention: it’s a space you don’t want to leave – convivial yet handsome, sophisticated in that way only art deco can manage, with a stunning Murano glass chandelier taking centre stage.
Another noticeable thing at Killiecrankie is that staff development seems part and parcel of working there. Staff conditions are good with generous paid leave, and not only has restaurant manager Lauren been supported to sit her sommelier exams but Mollie who runs the bar has been encouraged to develop her own excellent and interesting cocktails (Clovertini being one), building on the work of her predecessor Hamish Bremner (ex-Clove Club). This small team creates a wonderful atmosphere, with excellent friendly service and no doubt will aid staff retention in a location not renowned as a gourmet destination. It’s great to see a positive nurturing work environment in an industry where bullying and burnout are very much an issue.
The price point is reasonable for this kind of dining in a time where things are becoming more and more expensive, and less and less accessible. The only aspect that is a bit hard is the cancellation policy (all reservations have to be paid for in full at the time of booking and are non-refundable). It’s understandable given the size and location of this venture, and it’s necessary insurance against the cost of being in hospitality these days. It is therefore a commitment, in terms of time, travel and cost but it is one worth making. I would not be surprised if in the upcoming Michelin awards Killiecrankie House was recognised.
Killiecrankie House
Pitlochry
Perthshire
PH16 5LG
February 2025