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Palate’s Guide to Rioja

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Located in northern Spain, Rioja is one of the most famous wine regions in the world, recognised globally for its iconic high quality red wines. But there’s so much more to this medieval province than just the delicious wine.

La Rioja (as it’s locally known) is nestled between the Sierra Cantabria mountains to the north and the Sierras de Cameros and Demanda to the south. Within the stunning landscape you’ll find ancient castles and monasteries, charming towns made from distinctive ochre sandstone, beautiful vineyards and restaurants serving traditional cuisine.

 

The best vineyards to visit in La Rioja

Most people know Rioja for its famous red wine, made from a blend of grapes including Tempranillo, Grenache and other local varieties. What many people don’t realise is that you can also find incredible expressions of white Rioja and rosé too, using grapes such as Viura, Malvasía de Rioja and Garnacha Blanca.

While the region isn’t the largest in the world, there are still too many vineyards to fit in one trip. We’d recommend either booking a wine tour, which is available in most of the towns or renting a car and planning your own wine adventure from our recommended vineyards below.

Campo Viejo: there’s no denying this iconic yellow labelled red wine. A dominant brand in most supermarkets and one of the first wines I tried – it’s still part of my family’s regular wine rotation today. A 15 minute drive from Logroño, the winery sits at the top of a hill, offering stunning views back to the town and across to the Sierra Cantabria mountains. This winery is known for passion and use of colour and art, as you’ll see from the multi-sensory winery tour.

Ysios (pronounced i-see-os): this high-end winery, close to Logroño is absolutely breathtaking. The undulating roof was specifically designed to create a harmonious blend between the winery and the natural environment. Here, you can enjoy a tour followed by a tasting of their wines, which takes place in the cellar, among the barrels – it’s a wonderful experience.

Eguren Ugarte: this is an award-winning winery located in the heart of Rioja Alavesa, on the hills of Sierra Cantabria. Dating back to 1870, it is home to some very old vines and lots of history. There is also a beautiful hotel at the winery, should you choose to stay here.

Santalba: this is a family-owned organic winery in the heart of Rioja Alta. The vineyard has been passed down through the family, each generation bringing the same passion for the land as the next. Santalba is home to some of the best wines in the D.O.Ca. Rioja, and has held this label since 1964. (D.O.Ca. means ‘Qualified Designation of Origin’. It is the highest category in Spanish wine regulation.)

Bodegas Javier San Pedro Ortega: this winery is located in the heart of Rioja Alavesa, near to the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, overlooking the beautiful views of the village of Laguardia. Relatively young in comparison to other vineyards, their passion is to build an innovative winery, creating wines that are different from the traditional Rioja wines.

Bodegas Tobelos: just 2km from Haro is Bodegas Tobelos, a winery established in the 20th century, by highly-regarded winemaker, Ricardo Reinoso. Located on top of a hill, the winery overlooks the Ebro River and Sierra Cantabria. From the top of the hill at the winery, you can see stunning views of Peñas de Bilibio and Conchas de Haro. It’s the perfect place to sit and sip their outstanding wines.

 

Where to stay

The region of Rioja is relatively small in terms of area, approximately 5,000 square kilometers (1,930 square miles). Rioja is divided into three main sub-regions:

Rioja Alta: known for its cooler climate, and where some of the region’s finest wines can be found.

Rioja Alavesa: located in the Basque Country, it’s famous for its unique terroir and its excellent wines.

Rioja Oriental: previously known as Rioja Baja, this area is warmer and produces wines that are often more fruit-forward.

Aside from over 50,0000 hectares of vineyards, these sub-regions are also home to ancient small towns such as Logroño, the capital of Rioja; Haro, the best place to be if you want to visit lots of vineyards; Briones, similar to Logroño but a slightly less touristy town; Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a quiet and charming historic town; and Ezcaray, a charming mountain town that’s perfect if you want to explore both the mountain trails and vineyards.

To help you decide where to stay, we’ve shared our top things to do and see in two of the main towns, Logroño and Haro.

 

Logroño

Logroño is the capital of Rioja. Nestled on the banks of the Ebro River, Logroño has everything you need, from culture to pretty open parks and endless ‘pincho’ bars (a traditional small snack bar also known as pintxos). Plus, its accessibility means it’s the perfect place to explore the rest of the region from.

Logroños’ history dates back to Roman times and has long been a place of passage. It sits on the famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, so you’ll see plenty of hikers trudging along its narrow lanes.

 

Where to eat in Logroño

One of Logroño’s main attractions is its tapas scene, so if hopping from bar to bar sampling local cuisine is how you like to soak up the culture, Logroño is a must-visit.

The main pincho bars can be found on Calle Laurel. The name ‘pincho’ comes from the Spanish word pinchar, which means to poke/stab. You’ll quickly see why, as the tapas dishes are served on small skewers or sticks.

There are more than 50 pinchos to choose from and many of the bars have their own specialties. Bar Cid and Bar Soriano are famed for their grilled, stuffed mushrooms (called setas), while Jubera is known for its patatas bravas, Divina Croqueta for its array of stuffed croquettes, and Bar Gil, known for its ‘Gildas’ – hot green pepper, olive and anchovy on a stick. If you like seafood, you can find razor clams, known as navajas, at La Aldea, and Galician-style octopus at La Universidad. Round off your evening with something sweet and try the Spanish rice pudding, Arroz con Leche, found at many places including Meson Jebugo.

While you can eat plenty bar-hopping, it’s always nice to dine at a restaurant too. Logroño has a variety of traditional eateries to high-end restaurants. If you enjoy a spot of fine dining, it’s really worth splashing out on places such as La Rosaleda 1946, whose incredible attention to detail, wine list, and assistance to dietary requirements won me over; Tondeluna offers a simple, rich and seasonal menu, based on local produce with dishes like fried artichokes, beef tartare, and traditional meat and fish dishes with a twist. My most memorable thing about this restaurant was the huge barrel of butter. Delicious butter at that. Finally, Sabores, a contemporary restaurant and part of the Michelin Guide – you won’t dine for such value in London!

Top your evening off with a stroll along the streets and an ice cream from one of the Heladerías.

 

What to see in Logroño

Dating back thousands of years, Logroño has a rich history. Just walking through the streets feels like you’re going back in time, with the beautiful buildings and cathedrals. Here is a quick rundown of things to see in Logroño:

Logroño Cathedral (Catedral de Santa María de la Redonda): a 16th century cathedral boasting Gothic and Baroque architecture.

The Iron Bridge (Puente de Hierro): an iconic iron bridge that crosses the Ebro River, offering beautiful views of the river and city.

La Rioja Museum (Museo de La Rioja): if you’re eager to learn about the history of La Rioja, this is the place to do it. Showcasing the history, art, and culture of the region, you can find archaeological artefacts, medieval art and pieces from the Baroque and Renaissance periods.

Alfaro and the Caves of the Bodegas: located just outside of Logroño, the town of Alfaro is known for its impressive ancient caves, which were once used for storing wine. It’s a great introduction to learning about the wine of the region.

Parque de la Grajera: just outside the city, the park is a natural escape for those who enjoy open spaces. It’s also the perfect place to do your morning run!

Calle del Laurel: a famous street full of bars, where you can enjoy drinks and tapas, or pinchos as they’re known in Logroño.

Vineyards: local vineyards to Logroño include the famous Campo Viejo and Ysios, a beautiful winery with incredible architecture (see above).

Haro

Haro is a quaint picturesque town, perched on a hill in the Rioja Alta, in the heart of the wine region. Here, you have the perfect blend of wine experiences, beautiful landscapes, history and culture. The town isn’t quite as big or busy as Logroño, but still offers a great selection of restaurants and bars.

 

Where to eat in Haro

Big or small, you’ll always find a street full of tapas bars in the towns of Rioja. In Haro, there’s a concentration of relaxed bars on Calle San Martín, Calle Santo Tomás and Plaza de la Paz. If you’ve sampled enough Spanish omelette and pinchos, head to Los Berones, which blends Argentinian and Spanish flavours, with empanadas and mole chicken. We also dined at El Rincón del Noble, which offers hearty, homemade food, such as lamb chops and oxtail stew, among others. For fine dining, Nublo is your go-to. Nestled within a 16th century palatial house, this skillful Michelin-starred restaurant has just 30 seats – so make sure you book ahead. Other great options include Bar Chamonix and Alboroque.

 

What to see in Haro

Visit the wineries (Bodegas): many wineries in Haro have been producing wine for over 100 years and some are considered pioneers in modern winemaking. Bodegas López de Heredia is one of the oldest in the region.

Explore Barrio de la Estación (Station District): home to a selection of renowned wineries, all located near the train station. Here, you can stroll around and learn about the history of Rioja wine, tastings and tours.

Festa de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival): if you’re a true wine lover, try and plan your trip for early September, during the annual harvest wine festival. It’s a true celebration!

Take a hike in La Rioja Alta: take a walk in wine country and enjoy panoramic views.

Enjoy a hot air balloon ride over the vineyards – a truly special experience.

 

Getting to Rioja

Rioja is very easy to reach, especially from the UK, with regular short haul flights available from most of the main airports.

 

Bilbao Airport (BIO)

Distance to Rioja: 1.5 to 2 hours by car (150 km)

Bilbao is a major international airport with flights from Europe, North America and beyond. Once you reach Rioja, you’ll be able to find a good range of car rentals and transport options to Rioja. Bilbao is also home to the world-famous Guggenheim Museum, so it’s worth spending a few hours in the city, either side of your trip.

 

Logroño-Agoncillo Airport (RJL)

Distance to Rioja: 20 minutes by car from the city centre of Logroño (14 km)

Logroño is the capital of Rioja, and the airport is much closer to the region. However, it’s a much smaller regional airport with fewer flight options. Unless you’re travelling from within Spain, it’s often harder to find flights here.

 

Vitoria-Gasteiz Airport (VIT)

Distance to Rioja: 1 to 1.5 hours by car (58 km)

VIT (known locally as Foronda Airport), is located in the Basque Country, making it another good entry point for the region. San Sebastián is around 116 km from here, so it’s a good airport choice if you’re planning on visiting both regions.

 

 

Getting around Rioja

Rioja is best visited by car: as much of the region is home to vineyards, there aren’t many trains or buses. You can easily hire a car from one of the airports or alternatively use a taxi service.

If you’d prefer to relax and let others do the planning for you, local guides such as Riojatrek or Amelí can do the organising for you.

Rioja provides the perfect long weekend getaway for friends and couples. With so much to do and see, there’s something for everyone.

 

Cover photo and image of Rioja map licensed by Adobe. All other photos by Katherine Brook.

April 2025

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