palate cleanser


While the wine list at 28-50 is not especially long, it contains a comprehensive selection of good bottles. Much like the main list, the Coravin choice is also short – but not in the least disappointing. How can it be when it grants the option of sampling a 1998 Alion (Ribera del Duero, Spain)?

I ordered from where I was perched: up at the bar. Sat under a scatter of individual light bulbs conveying an unseasonably festive feel, I knocked back the 125ml of Alion with gusto.  Forest floor notes; tones of tobacco and liquorice – and grip for weeks.

The same joy did not lie in the service experience, sadly. My interaction with front of house was somewhat forced, with the relevant member of staff struggling to understand my request. This was followed by a disagreement between said member of staff and the card machine (with resulting tantrum and throw of arms in the air). The flailing, flustered host could not, however, take away from the gratifying vino. If the rare Alion is to hang around a while, 28-50 earns a place on any wine enthusiast’s bar hop.

15-17 Marylebone Lane

May 2017


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