Chef Ben Murphy, most recently head chef of Launceston Place, has opened his first restaurant on the site previously occupied by Monica Galetti’s Mere in Fitzrovia. Lauded as one of the UK’s most talented and inventive young chefs, I was keen to try his food now he has full control of the menu.
The first thing you see is their gorgeous street-level bar, open to non-diners on a walk-in basis and run by Nic Pellegrinetti (ex-Ham Yard Hotel), an inspired hire as bar manager. It was good to see him again and we had an engrossing chat about the signature freezer batch-made martini and its recipe development. A supremely elegant but relaxed space, this could easily become a cocktail enthusiast’s destination bar; I’m planning to make myself an inner-circle regular before they have to introduce bookings.
Post martinis, staff discreetly stored our coats behind a huge velvet curtain at reception and led us down a curved staircase to the dining room. Full credit to the interior designer: it’s a room that manages to feel luxurious and exclusive yet relaxed and welcoming at the same time, including a subtle glass and mirrored section, filled with plants, cleverly adding light, greenery and the illusion of extended space. Also, praise be, they have actually prioritised function: decently-spaced tables and genuinely comfortable seating means time can just slip away without distraction. Front of house staff are delightful: attentive without being irritating, friendly and clearly knowledgeable about the menu (thanks again, Harry). The sommelier will help you navigate the 300-strong wine list without a hint of snobbery or pushiness.
I’m calling it now for 74 Charlotte Street: this is a Michelin-starred restaurant in waiting
From the small plates section of the menu, the milk bread is one of Ben’s signature dishes; visually impressive and so fluffy it pulls apart at the lightest touch, it pairs beautifully with the noisette butter and pumpkin seed hummus. A ‘Fish & Chips’ taco highlights his typically playful approach to the classics with the chips present as an emulsion, while the crispy waffle dish arrives with a generous topping of 30-month aged Comté.
On to mains: the BBQ monkfish with vin jaune, coco bean and mussel is rich with butter and has a mercifully light touch of smokiness, which balances rather than overpowers the perfectly cooked fish. The doppio ravioli with Wiltshire truffle, butternut and basil packs a swinging uppercut of flavour, and is as pretty as a picture.
Mushroom tart with maitake and Parmesan
Doppio ravioli with Wiltshire truffle, butternut and basil
Apple crumble soufflé
One of my favourite dishes was the mushroom tart with maitake and Parmesan, a delicately crisp fluted tart shell topped with mushrooms which hides a quivering egg yolk in its centre. Once broken the yolk slips lava-like through the mushrooms, dressing their deep, meaty savouriness with a gloriously rich coating. Every element is considered, and perfect; you just have to sit back and marvel at the thought processes behind it, and the execution. It’s not a massive portion as mains go but the flavours are so intense, the textures so varied and the eating experience so engaging and pleasurable that it is fully satisfying. I think Murphy might just have accidentally solved the weight-loss jab/restaurateur conundrum.
Despite not having a particularly sweet tooth, I have to say that the soufflé, apple crumble, oats and caramel is another absolute triumph. Early in his career Murphy worked under food legend Pierre Koffmann at The Berkeley, and acknowledges his formative influence; not least in his and his team’s skill with soufflés. A scoop of apple crumble ice cream with a bronzed sticky, crunchy caramel topping is balanced on the proud toque of soufflé at the table. Diners are encouraged to wait briefly as time, touch and temperature lead them first to yield, and then gently and inevitably to meld. (There’s a metaphor in there somewhere but I’ll leave it to you and your therapist.)
I haven’t tried it yet as I’m too obsessed with that soufflé, but they have an ice cream trolley that is destined to become a social media star. Petits fours on my visits were a mini pumpkin-spiced choux bun and a soft-centred chocolate, marbled and glossy as a freshly-fallen conker, and a suitable finale to a beautifully-orchestrated dining experience.
The price point is surprisingly affordable for this level of cooking (Ben has said that one of his key aims is accessibility) and that’s without the lunchtime and Friday/Saturday early evening set menu, which gives you three courses for £39, or the wines by the glass that start from just £6.
I usually wait and visit again a month or so after a new restaurant opens to give them a chance to settle in but, quite frankly, Ben Murphy and his team don’t need it. I called it here for Kirk Haworth’s Plates, and I’m calling it now for 74 Charlotte Street: this is a Michelin-starred restaurant in waiting.
74 Charlotte Street
London
W1T 4QH
December 2025
