palate cleanser

Holy Water (Stroud)

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Some of the best things in life were never really intended: take, for example, Fleming’s forgotten culture plate yielding penicillin, or how Worcestershire sauce became a hit only after its creators stumbled upon an abandoned batch, previously deemed too vile for human consumption but had magically matured. Organic growth can be funny like that.

Holy Water – a cocktail bar and bottle shop in Stroud which opened in 2024 – was never intended to be a bar. Apparently, its founder Adam McVay was searching for a new home to develop drinks for his successful events business of the same name – one that has served pop stars and other large-scale corporate functions (its clients have included the likes of Elton John, Nespresso, Duran Duran, Google and activations for films like Wonka). It’s a little bizarre to think that the drinks lab for such an international venture is now nestled in the Five Valleys. And how does this all translate into a bar? And in Stroud, where (no offence) the local predilection is probably more for a pint of ale at The Prince Albert?

Starting life as one bloke’s experimental studio conjures images of Ned Flanders’ secret underground bar but that couldn’t be further from reality: the bar here is a surprisingly large space with sofas, communal tables, bar stools, record players, and that famous photo of Anthony Bourdain doing a middle finger salute. Behind the bar, between the hanging pieces of equipment, is a bucolic (if a little incongruous) Gloucestershire view, while there is the ever-present scent of freshly-made popcorn. Carbonated highballs may possibly be served in a test tube.

It’s hard to describe but I think “quirky” is the word I’m groping for. But also, at the time of this visit, quiet (it was early doors, to be fair, and got busier later but I suppose its location on Lansdown, near the local MP’s surgery office and opposite Stroud’s library isn’t the most conducive for footfall). Nonetheless, this provided ample opportunity to test their website’s claim that they “champion the art of hospitality and host the rituals of drink.” I’m pleased to say these are accurate on both counts.

First, spotting Lillet, Cynar, Punt e Mes and various other vermouths in the fridge, I could tell this is a bar of serious intent. Then, a duo of young but knowledgeable staff were keen to explain that any cocktail can be bottled or even canned on your behalf (very handy if you’ve got a train to catch but they’re best enjoyed on site). Indeed, some of the drinks are pre-batched. Now, normally, I’m a bit more forgiving of pre-batching in restaurants and at events due to scale, convenience and lack of space, but not in a specialist bar where you’re paying (partly) for the skill and theatre of something made à la minute, or to order. Anything less is just a dispensary. I can forgive Holy Water for its pre-batched Negroni though (once developed for a Liberty launch party in 2017) – decently balanced and reasonably priced at £12 per serve (or £40 for a large bottle to take home). Oh, and with clear ice and good quality glassware too.

As for their highballs, their ‘Rhubarb and Rose’ (comprising a mystery vodka or tequila with rhubarb, rose and cranberry) was refreshing and delightful as a light, summery drink. The ‘Mezcaliano’, meanwhile, married mezcal, Campari and sweet vermouth, served with a coffee foam. My only ‘note’ here was that the foam, while delicious in itself, created both an obstacle to the ice-cold drink below and an embarrassing café-au-lait moustache with each sip. Texturally, the thick foam and liquid below just seemed confusing to me. With a little tweaking, I’m sure the same flavour combination could be achieved in a more user-friendly way.

Testing their cocktails-from-scratch skills, a Vesper Martini was prepared perfectly, and to order, while one of the bartenders proffered his thoughts on Cotswolds gin and created a small sample of the ‘Summer Martini’ they serve at Juliet down the road. Really, top marks for customer service, and all at a fair price point (most drinks coming in around the £10-12 mark).

All in all, I’m very glad I stopped by. Holy Water is an impressive watering hole and well-worth visiting when in Stroud. And no doubt, Bourdain would approve.

11 Lansdown
Stroud
Gloucestershire
GL5 1BB

April 2026

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