Home
Reviews
Articles
Interviews
Travel
About
Palate Cleanser

Browsing Category

london

new
Read 1120
Belgravia, SW1W
La Poule au Pot (2017)

by J A Smith
new
Read 1720
Clerkenwell, WC1X
Otto’s (2017)

by J A Smith

Simpson’s in the Strand! At long last. Turns out

Simpson’s in the Strand! At long last. Turns out the two bars and The Grand Divan restaurant have opened slightly earlier than the expected late March opening (NB: Romano’s isn’t quite ready yet) so couldn’t resist going on a little exploratory mission. Still early days: teething issues are inevitable with this scale of undertaking so overlooking the minor delays in the restaurant but the two bars (two bars!) are already swinging. Tested the Simpson’s Martini in both (purely for consistency you understand): both beautifully dry with No. 3 gin and Sacred dry vermouth (the best vermouth, made in Highgate) - essentially Dukes style but with the genius touch of a sherry rinse. Already have a soft spot for Nellie’s Tavern downstairs which is surely going to be a new theatreland den of iniquity; the Jeremy King touches in this bar are subtle and seem quite personal, evoking memories of Bar Américain at Zédel and Joe Allen. Plus the staff were prepared for any off-menu cocktail challenge, e.g. a perfect Martinez and Campari Shakerato.

Considering how much work has gone into this reimagining of such an iconic London venue, this is an absolute triumph. Exciting times ahead. And that roast beef trolley!

Bravo!

#simpsonsinthestrand #londondining #londonlife #newopening #cocktailbar

“Virtus”-signalling in the 12th arrondissement

“Virtus”-signalling in the 12th arrondissement of Paris: Virtus is a wonderful restaurant near the market in Place d’Aligre, somewhat hiding in plain sight, and a study in the poetry of French menu language. By no means cheap but the four-course lunch menu on Fridays is 80 Euros and great value for this standard of cooking, just FYI. Technically excellent, pleasurable service (no tableside monologues) and more spacious than most Parisian restos. Some of the dishes in the photos here include the brioche-croissant hybrid (served gratis), red mullet with a solitary pomme soufflé and red wine fish bone jus for the ages, squab in various forms, and a celebration of pear. Link in bio for the full review, along with our other new reviews for March, comme d’habitude

#paris #virtus #parisdining #parisrestaurants #foodgram

Over to Edinburgh and Nepalese restaurant Thamel o

Over to Edinburgh and Nepalese restaurant Thamel on East London Street. In her first review as a contributor to Palate, Carinne Geil Botta is impressed by the friendly service of this family-run restaurant (complete with a speakeasy bar, The Blind Tiger), in particular the momo (Napalese steamed dumplings), the butter chicken curry, korma and garlic naan. Head to palatemag.co.uk for the full review or link in bio

✍️📷 Review and photos by Carinne Geil Botta

#edinburghrestaurants #napalese #curry #foodstagram #foodgram

March is here and we have new long-form reviews no

March is here and we have new long-form reviews now online on our main site, including reviews from Edinburgh, Paris and London. But first, an epic trip to west Wales and Ynyshir (and also welcoming back Sabrina Goodlife as a contributor).

At Ynyshir, the ingredient sourcing is incredibly meticulous, such as the Silverhill Farm ducks and female cows for the A5 Wagyu, and where the use of fat “is not only a means to an end, but also an end in itself” - a method that is “fiercely utilitarian” where “everything on the plate has an irreplaceable role.”

Desserts were slightly less thrilling perhaps but the duck egg custard, which has remained on the menu for a decade, was excellent.

On the value front, nobody could claim the tasting menu is a bargain but “given the quality of ingredients, and the unique nature of the restaurant, I did feel the experience was worth it.”

For the full review (and thoughts about that recent hygiene inspection) head to palatemag.co.uk or the link in bio, along with our other new reviews for March

✍️📷 Review and photos by Sabrina Goodlife

#ynyshir #restaurantreview #wales #finedining #moreismore

Popped in to Osteria Vibrato on a whim the other d

Popped in to Osteria Vibrato on a whim the other day. This highly-anticipated restaurant by Charlie Mellor and sommelier Cameron Dewar was heaving despite being just a week old (fortunately they reserve space at the bar for walk-ins). Already it feels like this has the makings of a great London restaurant, along with its bohemian Greek Street neighbours (also it’s fabulously, if dangerously, close to Termini, Three Sheets Soho and Henson’s bars, amongst others, though Kevin the bar manager here can make pretty much anything on request - ingredients permitting - including a Campari Shakerato and an excellent martini).

You’ve got to love the simple honesty of a slab of aged ricotta doused in premium olive oil to open proceedings (though note the bread isn’t free - there’s a £3 cover charge). A couple of refinements needed in the cooking perhaps (the tagliatelle with courtyard ragù, at just shy of £30, was a little dry) but it’s early days; at least the service was attentive and friendly on this visit, so they’ve hit the ground running on that front. Vibe-wise it feels like it has elements of Brutto, the live piano of Arlington, maybe the rusticity of Trullo, perhaps a soupçon of The Dover. Anyhoo, a promising start and booked to return while actually there, if that’s anything to go by
.
.
.
.
#osteriavibrato #soho #foodstagram #newrestaurant #londonrestaurants

Blowing away the February cobwebs at Brutto with a

Blowing away the February cobwebs at Brutto with a supremely comforting bowl of peposo (beef shin and peppercorn stew slow-cooked for several hours), with roast potatoes on the side for double-carbing, followed by a Martinez at The Prince on Old Street (such a great bar)
.
.
.
.
#farringdon #goodtimes #comfortfood #londonlife #enjoyyourself

A Covent Garden old school double bill to brighten

A Covent Garden old school double bill to brighten up February: starting at Rules for Negronis made to Brian Silva’s recipe and a trio of martinis in the winter garden followed by J. Sheekey for scallops, cheese soufflé, roasted fillet of cod and delicious sole meunière
.
.
.
.
.
#coventgarden #fish #seafood #londonrestaurants #moreismore

Noizé never fails. A recent return to this Fitzro

Noizé never fails. A recent return to this Fitzrovia restaurant that just quietly does its thing and to a consistently high standard. And while the menu regularly changes it’s great to see new signature dishes of theirs becoming a fixture, such as the sole fritters with jalapeño, now as crucial to the full Noizé experience as their gougères with a martini, and Comté with a glass of Jura at the end. In between, a fresh and vibrant salmon dish (cured and in mousse form) with a blood orange dressing, and loin of venison with radicchio, beetroot, venison ragout (not ragu) and a luxurious jus. Excellent wine choices by Mathieu as always and very friendly service. Just so delightful every time.
.
.
.
.
#fitzrovia #wheretoeat #foodgram #toplondonrestaurants #frenchrestaurant

Facebook Twitter Instagram

About us

An online food and drink magazine: UK-based but international in spirit read more

Find us on Facebook

© 2017-2026 Palate Magazine

Back to top