Palate Magazine

  • Home
  • Reviews
  • Articles
  • Interviews
  • Travel
  • About
    • What is Palate?
    • How We Grade Restaurants
    • The Team
    • Contact Us
  • Palate Cleanser

Red mullet

by J A Smith

March is here and we have new long-form reviews no March is here and we have new long-form reviews now online on our main site, including reviews from Edinburgh, Paris and London. But first, an epic trip to west Wales and Ynyshir (and also welcoming back Sabrina Goodlife as a contributor). 

At Ynyshir, the ingredient sourcing is incredibly meticulous, such as the Silverhill Farm ducks and female cows for the A5 Wagyu, and where the use of fat “is not only a means to an end, but also an end in itself” - a method that is “fiercely utilitarian” where “everything on the plate has an irreplaceable role.” 

Desserts were slightly less thrilling perhaps but the duck egg custard, which has remained on the menu for a decade, was excellent. 

On the value front, nobody could claim the tasting menu is a bargain but “given the quality of ingredients, and the unique nature of the restaurant, I did feel the experience was worth it.”

For the full review (and thoughts about that recent hygiene inspection) head to palatemag.co.uk or the link in bio, along with our other new reviews for March 

✍️📷 Review and photos by Sabrina Goodlife 

#ynyshir #restaurantreview #wales #finedining #moreismore
Popped in to Osteria Vibrato on a whim the other d Popped in to Osteria Vibrato on a whim the other day. This highly-anticipated restaurant by Charlie Mellor and sommelier Cameron Dewar was heaving despite being just a week old (fortunately they reserve space at the bar for walk-ins). Already it feels like this has the makings of a great London restaurant, along with its bohemian Greek Street neighbours (also it’s fabulously, if dangerously, close to Termini, Three Sheets Soho and Henson’s bars, amongst others, though Kevin the bar manager here can make pretty much anything on request - ingredients permitting - including a Campari Shakerato and an excellent martini). 

You’ve got to love the simple honesty of a slab of aged ricotta doused in premium olive oil to open proceedings (though note the bread isn’t free - there’s a £3 cover charge). A couple of refinements needed in the cooking perhaps (the tagliatelle with courtyard ragù, at just shy of £30, was a little dry) but it’s early days; at least the service was attentive and friendly on this visit, so they’ve hit the ground running on that front. Vibe-wise it feels like it has elements of Brutto, the live piano of Arlington, maybe the rusticity of Trullo, perhaps a soupçon of The Dover. Anyhoo, a promising start and booked to return while actually there, if that’s anything to go by 
.
.
.
.
#osteriavibrato #soho #foodstagram #newrestaurant #londonrestaurants
Blowing away the February cobwebs at Brutto with a Blowing away the February cobwebs at Brutto with a supremely comforting bowl of peposo (beef shin and peppercorn stew slow-cooked for several hours), with roast potatoes on the side for double-carbing, followed by a Martinez at The Prince on Old Street (such a great bar) 
.
.
.
.
#farringdon #goodtimes #comfortfood #londonlife #enjoyyourself
A Covent Garden old school double bill to brighten A Covent Garden old school double bill to brighten up February: starting at Rules for Negronis made to Brian Silva’s recipe and a trio of martinis in the winter garden followed by J. Sheekey for scallops, cheese soufflé, roasted fillet of cod and delicious sole meunière 
.
.
.
.
.
#coventgarden #fish #seafood #londonrestaurants #moreismore
Noizé never fails. A recent return to this Fitzro Noizé never fails. A recent return to this Fitzrovia restaurant that just quietly does its thing and to a consistently high standard. And while the menu regularly changes it’s great to see new signature dishes of theirs becoming a fixture, such as the sole fritters with jalapeño, now as crucial to the full Noizé experience as their gougères with a martini, and Comté with a glass of Jura at the end. In between, a fresh and vibrant salmon dish (cured and in mousse form) with a blood orange dressing, and loin of venison with radicchio, beetroot, venison ragout (not ragu) and a luxurious jus. Excellent wine choices by Mathieu as always and very friendly service. Just so delightful every time. 
.
.
.
.
#fitzrovia #wheretoeat #foodgram #toplondonrestaurants #frenchrestaurant
Ah, back to Larry’s Bar after the Lucian Freud e Ah, back to Larry’s Bar after the Lucian Freud exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery, and this drink is in honour of Freud’s friend, the “Francis Bacon Orange” - like the artist it’s bold and a tad controversial, being a riff on a Negroni Sbagliato with Papa Salt gin, Disaranno, El Bandarra Al Fresco for more bittersweet complexity and a champagne foam. Delicious. Good to be back here - always worth a stop for light refreshment 
.
.
.
.
#nationalportraitgallery #negroni #instadrink #cocktail #cocktailbar
Over to Paris and the exceptional Cypsèle, which Over to Paris and the exceptional Cypsèle, which opened towards the end of last year. Located on Île Saint-Louis, which is better known for its Berthillon ice cream shops and faux brasseries, Cypsèle offers something far more ambitious. It also has an interesting backstory: this is Marcin Król’s debut restaurant and was originally going to open in north-east London. And what a debut. A fabulous tasting menu including Brest oyster with blood orange granita, turbot with hazelnut oil and lentils, quail with bone-marrow-soaked breadcrumbs and radicchio, céleri à la Bocuse, wine paired by sommelier Quentin Loisel…

“I liked how soulful the plates were, how clearly we were eating the food Król wanted to cook… I am already plotting my return visit”

Link in bio for the full review (comme d’habitude) or head to palatemag.co.uk

✍️📷 Review and photos by Rachel Naismith 
.
.
.
.
.
#cypsele #paris #parisdining #parisfood #restaurantreview
Continuing our new reviews for February with Chorr Continuing our new reviews for February with Chorrito, a cantina and hot sauce producer in Edinburgh which is “serving some of the best Mexican brunch plates up north, and possibly, the whole of the UK.” Pictured here are the chilaquiles rojos (a veritable mountain), huevos rancheros and LA biscuit tacos. Delicious! 

Link in bio for the full review or head to palatemag.co.uk

✍️📷 Review and photos by Daniela Toporek 
.
.
.
.
#edinburgh #mexicanfood #cantina #foodie #foodgram
Facebook Twitter Instagram

About us

An online food and drink magazine: UK-based but international in spirit read more

Palate

Find us on Facebook

© 2017-2026 Palate Magazine

Back to top