I won’t wax lyrical again about the importance of a proper lunch – I did that in an article written during Covid, and more recently Noble Rot have published an excellent series of pieces on the subject in issue 38 which are worth a read. Nevertheless, in Anglo-American culture at least, there still seems to be some uneasiness about letting one’s hair down half-way through the day, the only exceptions being Sunday lunch or Christmas (this publication cannot countenance the concept of ‘bottomless brunch’).
But if there’s one country that truly embraces a proper lunch it’s France. I was lucky enough to experience this first-hand when working in Paris (pre-Covid, pre-Brexit, and what now feels like pre-decimalisation). The office actually closed between 12.30 and 2pm and we could avail ourselves of the ticket resto (an employee benefit granting discounts in local bistros), and on this return visit, as with every return visit, I was glad to see lunch is still thriving: at my beloved Chez Georges it was packed to the rafters at 1pm on a Thursday; ditto Le Cornichon in the 11th arrondissement which has a great value set lunch (or “formule”) at 22 Euros for three courses.
At the upper end of the scale, Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris are notoriously exorbitant and, generally in my view, not worth it, but value can be found at lunchtime. Nothing will ever beat the epic déjeuner I had at Le Clarence a few years ago (pro-tip: make full use of the exquisite bar lounge there as it’s open to diners only), but the Palais Royal Restaurant comes close.
Nestled in a corner of the Jardin du Palais-Royal, this restaurant has a subdued ambience which might seem a little staid, though is perhaps fitting for a place that is also the home of the Conseil d’Etat and Conseil Constitutionnel (two of France’s highest courts for when legal merde really hits the fan). It can even feel a little awkward, tucking into a meal costing at least 145 Euros when you peer through the colonnades and see tourists with their jambon beurre sandwiches on the steps. But sometimes you do have to sit back and fully enjoy such exceptional cuisine, in this case directed by Philip Chronopoulos.
Chronopoulos has been in situ here since 2015 (he has since opened a sister restaurant in Venice) and he calls on his native Greece for inspiration, though I hesitate to just describe this as a “fusion restaurant” for fear of conjuring images of pastitsio made with foie gras or a hideously deconstructed kleftiko. His training at the Institut Paul Bocuse and stints working with Alain Passard and the late Joël Robuchon are what truly shine through here: it’s very much in the French fancy-pants style of extremely refined sauces and elegant presentation but using Greek ingredients and flavour combinations. It’s an approach which pays off deliciously.
Broccoli, lemon, mint, lemon balm and Greek yogurt
Suckling pig, rhubarb, onion and mustard
Strawberry millefeuille, elderflower and Peloponnese honey
To start, a bonus mezze of a feta and pea tartlet, foie gras and taramasalata just materialised (with glasses of champagne we accidentally ordered, but when in Rome). All very delicate and the free bread with a sublime Greek olive oil made a pleasant change to butter.
Onto the lunch menu proper and a first course of broccoli, lemon, mint, lemon balm and Greek yogurt was exceptionally light and accomplished, the broccoli sorbet in its centre being particularly welcome on a warm day. My colleague was equally enamoured by an opening gambit of red prawn and courgette, just gently caressed with wild garlic.
I was impressed by the suckling pig, artistically arranged with rhubarb in rhombus shapes, onion, caviar-esque pearls of Dijon mustard, quenelles of pomme purée and a jus that could only have been made by a chef of this pedigree. As for the pork, it was so tender you barely needed your teeth.
Desserts were perhaps less memorable or ground-breaking but pleasant nonetheless, a baba rum having an unorthodox coffee twist, and my strawberry millefeuille drizzled in Peloponnese honey was well-executed.
It’s clear as consommé why this restaurant appeals so much to the Michelin inspectors – on the food alone it is indeed very good and deserves its stars, though the service could do with a little injection of warmth at times (the slight aloofness only broken by a gimmicky offer to take a photo of you at the end). The wine selection could also be better value; even from the by-the-glass section it’s a struggle to find anything that would do the food justice for under 30 Euros, and a small bottle of mineral water (the price undisclosed on the menu) came to 12 Euros. Also, like many places in Paris, it’s only open on weekdays which can be limiting.
Overall though, this was a very enjoyable meal and in a very convenient location to boot (indeed, just a short walk from Willi’s Wine Bar and Galerie Vivienne). I certainly plan to return for lunch one day (but perhaps not dinner when it’s twice as expensive). Vive le déjeuner !
110 Galerie de Valois
Jardin du Palais-Royal
75001 Paris
France
July 2025
