Brussels, known more for its bureaucracy, beer and mussels, is perhaps less associated with a cocktail culture. When I was recently in town, a local friend of mine who has been observing all of this change for the better over the last decade, suggested I investigate Under The Stairs at Brussels’ Corinthia hotel.
The plush five star hotel, which opened in December 2024, launched its new bar just this summer. Walking in on a whim after asking the hotel security guards for directions, I was immediately impressed by the secretive bar’s low-lit ambience and slightly louche vibe, but above all the warm welcome from the staff (you can’t book but equally there’s no attitude or queuing nonsense either).
Being the sister hotel of The Corinthia in London and its Velvet bar, high standards of service are to be expected. Hiring Hannah Van Ongevalle as its Director of Mixology has been a canny move on the hotel’s part as not only does she bring a wealth of experience and imagination to the role but, on this visit alone, I got the impression she has hand-picked her staff very carefully. Greeted by an affable Flemish bartender, he guided me through their debut menu called ‘From Dust We Rise’: this honours the iconic cocktail bars of Europe – especially the likes of The Savoy in London or Harry’s Bar in Paris – but serving inverted or interesting new interpretations of classics through a lens of art and fashion (so much so they arguably become new drinks). Now, this is where I usually raise an eyebrow, but if this is a bridge too far they have an impressive back bar from which they can make anything (including the classics, as intended).
I had to start with a Hanky Panky, this being one of my all-time favourite drinks. This is a cocktail that has its own fascinating history, invented by The Savoy’s first female bar manager Ada Coleman for actor Sir Charles Hawtrey (the Victorian actor not the ‘Carry On’ one). I really liked this new version, made with the traditional gin and sweet vermouth but swapping out the Fernet Branca (which can be overpowering for some people) for peppermint cordial, lemon verbena and Picon Amer, giving a sweet and citrus edge. (I overlooked the unorthodox use of an ice cube but at least it was clear.)
Hanky Panky
Femme Fatale on Under The Stairs’ debut menu
Aviation
The Sidecar here also has an intriguing twist, still with the traditional cognac but with the addition of toasted sesame and pear.
Slightly less successful, for my taste anyway, is their reimagining of the Aviation. An Aviation, as everyone knows, actually looks like the sky due to its crème de violette, gin and lemon juice mixture (and the best I’ve ever had remains Laurent’s at Harry’s Bar in Paris). Here, things are turned on their head almost entirely with the violette, some Lillet, camomile and rose brought forward resulting in a crimson-coloured and floral serve. But there’s more! It’s also served on ice rather than straight-up, and with an upside down saucer on top like a ludicrous hat (and a macaron on top of that). Trying to put my cocktail pedantry aside for a moment, I just tried to ignore the name and close my eyes, judging the drink on its own merits. I have to admit it was rather tasty but still too sweet alas. I’m not sure I’d order it again.
That said, this all pales into insignificance considering the lovely atmosphere and great service here; sometimes these factors can really be the reason why you want to return, even more so than the food or drink. Owing to its punchy price point, with most cocktails clocking in around the 18 Euro mark, Under The Stairs is unlikely to be a regular watering hole for a swift sharpener after work. But I would certainly recommend it as a place for a special occasion or somewhere to impress. This will be my go-to whenever I’m in town.
Corinthia
Rue Royale 103
1000 Brussels
Belgium
September 2025
