German food isn’t all sauerkraut and sausages. I’ve had some utterly fabulous meals in this country, especially in the Black Forest area. Cologne hasn’t traditionally been known as a gastro go-to location but one place in particular stands out in this city on the Rhine, almost literally: Himmel Un Äd on the top floor of a former water tower successfully marries a unique setting with good food and service.
You know how sometimes a restaurant just gets the ambience right? At Himmel Un Äd, the lighting, noise levels, floor and chairs are comfortably arranged so that every muscle relaxes straight away
The lift pinged, signalling its arrival at the top floor. I was ushered in to the restaurant by a friendly receptionist, a Negroni from the hotel bar already decanted to my stomach, and felt instantly becalmed. You know how sometimes a restaurant just gets the ambience right? It’s a beautiful and reassuring moment when this happens. At Himmel Un Äd, the lighting, noise levels, floor and chairs are comfortably arranged so that every muscle relaxes straight away. The view is impressive too. Whilst the Cologne skyline is not that of Paris, Berlin or New York, you can walk around the perimeter of the tower and breathe it all in – the cathedral and the river are clearly visible. Vertigo sufferers worry not: the tables aren’t parked right next to the window and the walkway around the perimeter is of course optional.
So far so good. But how does the food and drink fare? When I first saw the menu I exerted a heavy sigh: they do this arrangement that’s now popular in most high-end European restaurants, especially northern Europe and Scandinavia, whereby you can choose 6, 8 or 10 set courses (depending on how close to pay day you are) with matching wines for each, the wines also matched in price. I’m not a fan of this approach: not only do I find the wines turn out to be poor value, but sometimes I just don’t want 6 glasses of wine. What if I want just 2 of my own choice? After some negotiation and haggling with the sommelier, I was relieved that I could choose 2 of my own, even if this option isn’t advertised. I proceeded with two German wines, both of which carried across the food nicely and didn’t break the bank (the six course option is expensive enough, starting at 145 Euros).
The food is vibrant and eye-catching, almost as if it’s served with its own Instagram filter
Maybe they push the matching wines thing because it isn’t taken up very often. Indeed, I didn’t see many co-diners drinking wine anyway (in Germany and Northern Europe it’s perfectly normal in these places for customers to drink beer rather than wine – it’s just their culture). For me, whilst I like to knock back the Kolschs in Cologne, a meal like this merits wine, as long as I can choose what and how much I want.
Waller
Sea bass
Australian pasture beef
The meal began with the presentation of amuse bouches in a pizza delivery box, showing some humour and quirkiness from the get-go. The food is certainly vibrant and eye-catching, almost as if it’s served with its own Instagram filter, but I’m not so sure the vibrancy of colour is at all times matched with flavour. Throughout there were clear nods to Mediterranean influences, bringing some fresh vitality to German modern cuisine, though at times the dishes seemed a little overworked. Starting with the waller, essentially a form of catfish, this was served on a surprisingly orange consommé containing potato and cucumber, playing around with visual expectations. Next up was the sea bass, which lured me in with its bright presentation, but the flavours and textures were just plain weird: a hard tomato, a sticky fig reduction, and olive and basil ice cream left me a little bewildered. The “Australian pasture beef,” oddly roasted, was a triumph. The dessert of lemon jelly, sorrel ice cream and biscuits seemed basic to me but perhaps I’m underestimating the complex processes involved in the pastry section here.
As the cheese trolley was wheeled out, the chef patron Eric Werner came out to speak to every customer, which was a nice touch and we were able to have a little chat about his cooking. Service was efficient and cordial across the board.
So, at times, I found the food lacked a certain finesse I’d expect at this price point, though it was well presented. In all other respects a faultless dining experience. If you’re ever in this part of Germany you can’t go far wrong with a meal here.
Hotel Wasserturm
Hauptstrasse 293
51143 Cologne
Germany
by J A Smith
