Italian restaurants are opening across London like mussels in a steaming pot of moules marinières. While this saturation has been criticised by some, it’s good to have choices when many new ventures turn out to be an expensive disappointment (and in any case, branding them all with the generic description “Italian” is as much a misnomer as “Indian” is in the cuisine context).
Amongst the proliferation of “Italian” restaurants in and around Covent Garden, there are some I doubt I’ll become a regular at. Mezzogiorno, Locatelli at The National Gallery and Cicoria, while well-intentioned, just didn’t live up to the promise of the well-known chefs behind them (at least for me anyway). Having whittled down choices in the area, could Burro finally be an “Italian” worth returning to?
Let’s start with its USP. As “burro” is Italian for “butter” the name alone gives some clues as to its regional leanings, more inclined to the northern and Alpine parts of Italy than the olive oil of sunnier climes. Perhaps this is also because chef owner Conor Gadd calls on his Northern Irish roots, informing a “Britalian” approach (Luca in Clerkenwell championed British ingredients in Italian dishes when it opened, maybe out of Brexit necessity, but if it works then why the hell not?). Hence at Burro the cod is from Brixham, the scallops are from Paignton and the duck for the ragù is from Aylesbury (a dish we’ll consider in more detail shortly), while butter’s presence could not be more obvious than the absurdly generous vitello al burro.
This is an Italian restaurant actually worth returning to
For Gadd’s new solo venture since co-owning Trullo in Highbury, it feels a little like a lead singer branching out on their own; the backing band may be different but there’s still that unmistakable sound and lyrical turn of phrase. At Burro, the menu structure is pretty much identical (sans a dedicated grilled section) and those Trullo salt and pepper bowls are present and correct, but Gadd has embraced the opportunity to put his own stamp on things.
As for the space he’s chosen, designers Day Studio have transformed what was once Petersham Nurseries’ Covent Garden outpost into a restaurant that feels almost timeless: while obviously new, there’s a studied rusticity with sparsely adorned walls (as bare as Riva in Barnes) and banquettes reminiscent of the Bakerloo line (in the nicest possible way). Meanwhile, the main colour scheme has tones of caffè latte and chocolate; you almost feel like you’re dining inside one of their tiramisù doughnuts (which must surely be anyone’s ideal of eternal paradise when they shuffle off this mortal coil). And pleasingly for such a large space, they’ve avoided the temptation of cramming in tables and have blissfully low lighting, maximising comfort and minimising sensory overload. This is how restaurants should be: simultaneously suitable for post-theatre discussions, family gatherings, friendly catch-ups or illicit trysts.
On this visit the service was noticeably attentive and friendly too, consistent with my experiences at Trullo. It’s always a relief to see a restaurant eschew QR codes for classic paper menus and see a server jot your order down on a notepad rather than rely on a non-existent memory palace. Also, an off-menu classic gin martini was no bother at all (though on the next visit I’m keen to try their Marsala version).
Speaking of drinks, the wine list is entirely and confidently Italian, save for the Champagne selection. I clocked some beautiful Bolgheris and Barolos on there and notably, on a random sample of five of them, the mark-up was between 2 and 3.5 times retail, so about average for London. The glass selection ranges between £6 and £21 which is very fair for the area.
Panzanella
Fettuccine with duck and porcini ragù
Gloucester Old Spot pork chop with borlotti beans and salsa verde
Turning to the food, Tuscan panzanella was a good test of the restaurant’s philosophy, essentially elevating an example of cucina povera (and at £13 for a salad there’d better be some elevation). This was as virtuous as it was delicious: you’d get your five a day in just a couple of mouthfuls of the chopped tomatoes, olives, cucumber, red onion and assortment of leaves, along with protein from the lentils and carbs from the damp bread, though said bread (in crouton form) wasn’t technically traditional and the dressing was a touch too acidic for me. I’m all for going Spinal Tap and turning things up to 11, but 12? I’d like to be able to leave a restaurant with my gums and taste buds still intact, if it’s all the same to you. With a little toning down of the vinegar this could be a triumph.
Then the fettuccine with duck and porcini ragù (£19.50). Here, the eggy pasta was perfectly al dente, the ribbons having that essential wet shower curtain effect vis-à-vis the ragù, and I suspect lubricated by some burro, though the ragù itself was a little dry. I imagine the pasta is cooked à la minute while the ragù bubbles away all day, so some loss of moisture is inevitable. Other commentators have effused about their transcendental experiences with this dish; I didn’t have the same swoonworthy trip but it was a fine plate of pasta nonetheless, and a liberal snowfall of Parmesan never hurts anyone.
Gloucester Old Spot pork chop with borlotti beans and salsa verde (£33) felt both very Trullo and also Noble Rot. No wheel reinvention here but reassurance. This was very well-executed: the fat was rendered well, the seasoning was correct, the softened beans wallowed in their own disintegrated gloopiness; it all just came together in one satisfying whole.
In the dolci department, the presentation of the macerated strawberries and panna cotta (£10) in a school-style metal dish made it difficult to test for the requisite wobble but beneath the pool of strawberry jus the panna cotta was perfectly smooth. Grown-up baby food perhaps but who cares when it’s delicious? And those tiramisù doughnuts (£11), while not necessarily textbook, were also fun and give Burro a further memorable selling point.
Unlike Venice, everything is on very safe ground at Burro. Conor Gadd may be sticking to his Trullo strengths here but I don’t blame him: this is just honest, comforting food in a welcoming atmosphere at a reasonable price (and is counter-intuitively better than some nearby restaurants with Italian chefs attached to them). Amongst a plethora of competitors in Covent Garden, this is an Italian restaurant actually worth returning to.
Unit 2 Floral Court
Floral Street
London
WC2E 9FB
August 2026
