When a little birdie told me about a new Slovenian-Alpine cocktail bar in Holloway my initial reaction was equal parts doubt and optimism. I wouldn’t normally rush to a bar that serves a Sauerkraut Martini but I was simultaneously pleased for geographical reasons, N7 and the surrounding Sourdough Belt being a hinterland for decent bars (and even more so since Crossroads moved and then closed, and Knowhere Special in Kentish Town paused for refurbishment and didn’t re-open).
So I went over to Holloway and found Bar Gemišt beneath the railway arches by the tube station, not expecting much but quickly finding my ludicrous prejudice recede. The greeting was immediately warm and friendly, the bar inviting with a Cheers-like “everyone knows your name” vibe, and the menu intriguing in its retro but EU-like ambitions. Take, for instance, the “Basil Smaš” – it sounds silly, perhaps an ironic drink you’d expect at an Erasmus students’ party, but I soon discovered they marry serious cocktail-making with a wry sense of humour.
Perhaps this isn’t really surprising since Bar Gemišt is co-owned by Uros Dezutelj (formerly a bar manager at 69 Colebrooke Row) and Marion Zoellé (formerly of Silent Pool and, briefly, Amaro); they both have excellent experience which shows in their professional service and the light-hearted Alpine-Slavic leitmotif running through the drinks.
Starting with a gentle aperitif, the “Linden Spritz” comprises Lillet rosé, Aperol, linden for a floral edge, and Crémant d’Alsace: light and perfectly pleasant, this would be wonderful as a sundowner and probably best enjoyed on their outdoor terrace in summer.
Next, the “Oranž Negroni” which was pleasingly dry and a bit reminiscent of a Cardinale or Lucien Gaudin. Here, they use one of the best gins (Plymouth, normal strength), a fortified orange wine instead of sweet vermouth and, naturally, Campari. The decent glassware and clear ice cubes were duly noted in both drinks.
Sauerkraut Martini
Oranž Negroni
Tuxedo No. 2
And then the “Sauerkraut Martini”. I knew this would take some convincing. I’m a classic gin martini imbiber, preferring them as cold as Pluto and as dry as Arrakis. Also the idea of a drink based on concentrated cabbage would make all but the most ardent vegan recoil. But sometimes the best therapy is to face one’s fears head-on; you may even be pleasantly surprised. This Absolut Elyx vodka martini, laced with toasted cumin, the aforementioned cabbage and Cocchi extra dry vermouth was remarkably well-balanced and served amusingly from a hip flask kept at a very low temperature. And just as I was thinking “this flavour profile could benefit from a side of sausages” it seemed Uros read my mind and pointed out there are landjager sausages on the snacks menu (as well as cornichons and, if hungrier, a French Alps cheese platter; free mini pretzels are served with drinks as standard).
So far, so delicious. But just to check I wasn’t hallucinating like an over-zealous Large Language Model, I had to test them on a couple of off-menu classics, namely a Campari Shakerato and Tuxedo No. 2. Both of these were spot-on (and they seemed pleased to be asked).
The value is also very fair for London, currently at £13 per cocktail (though intriguingly the alcohol-free ones are about the same), and their two beers on offer are £6 per bottle.
If I have any ‘notes’ at all there’s only an ergonomic one: the bar stools are a bit hard and could do with a foot rest on the bar itself, but that very small design imperfection is outweighed by everything else. They even do brunches on Sundays (with Rua Coffee Bar), have a monthly crochet and knitting club, and organise cycle rides. What could possibly go wrong? Bar Gemišt is, as my friend succinctly put it, “just delightful.”
Standards are now exhilaratingly high in the London bar scene, indeed with my new Shoreditch favourite (and Palate’s best new bar of 2025) Waltz gaining international attention in the Spirited Awards Top 10 in just a year (alongside Bar De Vie in Paris, also reviewed by yours truly). Some new places will try too hard to impress and to pretentiously match those standards while others just have a natural brilliance, not needing to shout for attention but relying on their talent to shine through. I can tell already Bar Gemišt falls into the latter category; it may very well be one of the best new bars to open in London in the last few months.
Unit 1
303 Holloway Road
London
N7 8HS
June 2026
