Japanese drinks expert Gento Torigata has always been a class act. Having watched him work at Kwãnt I had high expectations when I heard he was going to open Waltz, his new solo bar in Shoreditch. Sure enough, Waltz doesn’t fail to impress.
Gento is one of the calmest and most professional bartenders in the business, effortlessly remembering guests’ names and their preferences while stirring the clearest of clear ice (his small team of bartenders and front of house are similarly polite and very pleasant). Like an auteur film director Gento’s influence is subtle but omnipresent; he has clearly planned everything about his new bar in meticulous detail. Take for instance the navy blue mural which wraps round the bar, featuring a symbolic starling murmuration (it takes on a whole new significance after your third drink). The bar itself has been made from a fallen tree in Gibson Square in Islington. Then there’s the jazz-leaning playlist, each individual track hand-picked by Gento and giving these cocktails the soundtrack they deserve. At Waltz, foraged ingredients and Bill Evans are simpatico. And of course there are other details such as delicate glassware and commissioning Legards to make sturdy bar stools. It all just exudes sophistication.
The cocktail menu is essentially in two parts: the regularly-changing half on the left, which follows Japan’s micro-seasons, and an ‘Evergreen’ section which is more static. From the first section I tried the verdant ‘Dandelion Negroni’ whilst waiting for a seat (more on the no-booking policy below). This really packed a punch owing to the Suntory Roku gin but was gently rounded off with Cocchi Americano, dandelion leaf and bergamot essence, and cola bitters to replace Campari. It was as unusual as a Dave Brubeck time signature but still beguilingly bittersweet as a classic Negroni.
Waltz has got off to an extremely promising start
Next, the ‘Rhubarb’ wouldn’t be my normal choice of drink, the colour reminding me of a dental hygienist’s post-scaling mouth wash, but I chose it because the use of cheddar sounded so wonderfully strange (a distillate, not floating lumps of cheese, Gento assured me). Gin-based too but with Nuet Dry aquavit, sake, sugar and a subtle fromagian hint, it was delicious. It will sadly drop off the seasonal menu soon but will hopefully come back around next year.
Then, a ‘Douglas Fir’, a lighter highball where the tannins in the Gyokuro tea really helped to cut through the sweetness of the lime juice, resulting in a very balanced and refreshing low ABV drink.
‘Rhubarb’
‘Brooklyn, Tokyo’
Gibson with Japanese pickles
Over to the right-hand side of the menu, the ‘Brooklyn, Tokyo’ was a true highlight for me and one I’ll be ordering again on future visits. Knob Creek rye, Myoga, dry vermouth, suze, maraschino, peach bitters and Hinoki essence really make for a complex and memorable drink. One for contemplative sipping, I could just picture Bill Murray or the late Anthony Bourdain enjoying one of these after a busy old day.
Snacks are limited but nevertheless inspired. I already had some Japanese pickled vegetables to nibble on with my Gibson (made here with Sipsmith, Tsuchida Koji 99 sake and Shiokoji) but certainly clocked the marmite pinwheels for another time (a genius idea). There is also a wide sake selection and some classics will be introduced in due course (though they already seem to be able to make anything off-menu, provided they have the ingredients).
On this visit Waltz was on a walk-in basis only and seems like it will be for the foreseeable, though with only 12 places at the bar I’m not sure there’s any need for a booking system. Having to wait for one of those coveted seats at busy times can be frustrating, but unlike the antiquated queuing convention at Dukes or The Connaught Bar, where you can be left in the purgatorial lobby for up to an hour without anything to quench your thirst, there’s a pared-down selection of drinks for those waiting at Waltz; my wait was about 15 minutes and patience really is rewarded. (A few stools in the waiting area wouldn’t go amiss though.)
One other small hesitation is perhaps the price point, which at around £18 per drink feels more Mayfair than Shoreditch, but I’d say it’s justified for this level of service, the quality of ingredients and attention to detail.
Waltz has got off to an extremely promising start and I see this being a new destination bar to rival the best in London.
28 Scrutton Street
London
EC2A 4RP
May 2025
