Is there anything more civilised than cocktail hour at a centre for thinkers, changemakers and artists? Muse at RSA House just off The Strand opened to relatively little fanfare in November 2024, though in some ways there’s an ‘if you know you know’ secrecy about this place that its patrons want to preserve.
Led by the highly-experienced Marcis Dzelzainis (formerly of Quo Vadis, 69 Colebrooke Row, Zetter Townhouse, Satan’s Whiskers, Sager + Wilde amongst others) and head bartender Kevin Price Houghton (ex-Wacky Wombat), the cocktails here are balanced, fun and embrace the sustainability principles of Dzelzainis’ company Idyll Drinks. Dzelzainis, like me, is also a huge David Lynch fan; whether he’s had any hand in the interior design I’m not sure, but the low lighting, banquettes, abstract art and granite table tops all have a Lynchian touch. I certainly raised my first drink, ‘The Blackadder,’ to the late director and artist.
‘The Blackadder’ comprises Vault Aperitivo bitter, Hepple sloe and hawthorn gin, sour cherry, lemon and almond with a couple of dashes of Devil’s Botany absinthe. There’s a lot going on there and whilst it tasted a little like a liquid Bakewell tart, it certainly packed quite a punch.
Moving on to ‘My Bloody Clementine’, this whisky-based drink is mixed with amontillado sherry, chamomile, ginger, honey and yuzu. I found it pleasingly reminiscent of a Penicillin – very medicinal indeed on a wintry evening – but they could probably dispense with the chocolate garnish which seemed a bit superfluous.
The Blackadder
My Bloody Clementine
Negroni
The ‘wild’ cocktails are worth a try – the ‘Wild Carrot Margarita’ being a rather feisty number – and there are a number of wines, beers, soft drinks and non-boozy cocktails on offer too.
But finally, Muse could not escape without a classics test. A simple off-menu Negroni was well-made (not pre-batched) with beautifully clear ice. They were at pains to point out that they don’t use mass-market ingredients like Campari or well-known vermouths like Martini Rosso, and fair play. It makes for a refreshing change to substitute these with lesser-known ingredients from independent producers and the resulting Negroni, while a little unusual, was delicious.
I was due to have dinner nearby so didn’t have any snacks though I noted the neighbouring table very much enjoying the tomato and paprika bread sticks with a ‘Truffle Martini’, which sounds like a match made in heaven.
On paying the bill it was lovely to be asked by Kevin if I was a Fellow of the RSA. Alas, no, not at the moment anyway, but there is a feel of exclusivity about this place despite being fully open to the public – a ‘club without a sub’ in some respects. It’s a slight shame that it’s only open weeknights and not at weekends, but whether you’re after a post-theatre tipple, an aperitif before dinner at Jeremy King’s Simpson’s in the Strand (when it opens) or a sharpener before the 19:23 from Charing Cross, Muse at RSA House is a great new addition to the area.
18 Adam Street
London
WC2N 6AA
March 2025
