Modesty is overrated. Sometimes, when artfully done, excess can be a wonderful thing. This quest for “more is more” led me to the doors of The Cocochine, a new opening by culinary heavyweight Larry Jayasekara on Bruton Place, Mayfair.
The experience and travels of Sri Lankan Chef Jayasekara span nine Michelin stars, 26 countries, two decades and multiple awards. He has formerly worked alongside Alain Roux at The Waterside Inn, as well as stints at Michel Bras and Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, before being appointed Head Chef at Petrus by Gordon Ramsay.
A partnership with gallery owner Tim Jefferies has ensured The Cocochine is one of this year’s most glamorous openings, and as expected it’s a beautiful space: a four storey townhouse-turned-dining destination with no expense spared. Chef Jayasekara talks enthusiastically about the relentless attention to detail, with everything from the 1400 bottle wine cellar to the artisan leather hand rails, all thoughtfully selected and oozing sophistication.
There are just eight tables available, with an additional Chef’s Counter upstairs that seats seven. The Cocochine offers à la carte dining and a 3-course set menu at £145, including amuse bouches, petits fours and bread (no tasting menu as yet, but I hope that will change in time).
The Cocochine is an essential restaurant for a fine dining lover in London
The restaurant has its own farm (The Rowler Farm and Estate) which is responsible for many of the ingredients used. The produce is as good as it comes, the menu is eclectic, and the best of everything is on offer: Tauzin chickens; Otoro from Ginza, Japan; Golden Oscietra caviar; truffle; and scallops as big as a fist.
The petits fours are the perfect opening gambit and a great example of the Jayasakera style: classical in their execution but with daring touches of creativity. Tartlets of gently spiced “Coronation chicken”, and others of Norwegian reindeer heart, fatty tuna with caviar, and silky deer liver. The gougères are a particularly good example, the pastry here could rival any patisserie. Little brioche scrolls folded with caramelised onions and thyme arrive shortly after, glazed in brown butter and paired with (you’ve guessed it) two more butters: one from Normandy, and one flavoured with shallot.
To compensate for the lack of tasting menu, we ordered an extra course each: the onion soup with onion agnolotti. 12 varieties of onion conspire to create a powerful soup with intense depth of flavour, tempered by the sweet onion purée, and (just in case this wasn’t fun enough) it arrives with an elegant truffle cheese toastie.
Japanese Otoro tuna with roasted foie gras, and Golden Oscietra caviar at The Cocochine
Rowler Farm Salad
66% chocolate cremeux with Golden Oscietra caviar and Tahitian vanilla ice cream
Next, the Japanese Otoro tuna with roasted foie gras, and Golden Oscietra caviar. An unapologetically decadent fat bomb that was plated with no unnecessary garnish or fuss. Some might call it excessive; I refer such people to my opening sentence. This was the best of everything, tripled. It’s hard to find fault in such a generous offering.
I opted for the rack of venison, with Jersey oyster and cloudberries, and added the Rowler Farm Salad and Cocochine chips. The plating and execution of the venison was faultless, and the quality of the meat was exceptional. Quenelles of quince and pickled walnut bought the plate to life, and all the flavours were held together by a moody 100% chocolate jus. An unexpected star of the show was the Rowler Farm Salad which consisted of some 73 edible herbs and plants – some raw, some pickled, some turned into oils, others blended into a pesto. This was a delight to eat, and a true celebration of the farm and its produce. The chips (confit style) I dunked eagerly into béarnaise, the venison was a blushing pink and worked beautifully with the fruit. Oh how delightful it is, on a rainy Thursday evening, to sit perched opposite an open kitchen and eat like a Tudor king.
Yet more caviar for dessert I’m afraid. A 66% Chocolate Cremeux with Golden Oscietra Caviar and Tahitian vanilla ice cream (the menu being a set price does rather coerce one into choosing the most decadent plates!). A tried and tested combination – and perhaps a nod to Bruno Verjus – this was a restrained and sophisticated dessert that was well-balanced, the caviar adding a welcome touch of salt to the chocolate and dairy.
The petits fours were yet another immaculately-presented and well-considered course, my favourites being the chocolate orange florentine, and a sharp little lemongrass tartlet.
Service was professional and friendly, and the Chef’s Counter offers a chance to speak to Larry Jayasekara, a chef so full of experience, life, and enthusiasm. This is a restaurant with a vision, and a team committed to delivering a special experience. I feel confident in saying The Cocochine is an essential restaurant for a fine dining lover in London and will without a doubt reach (at least) one Michelin Star status.
27 Bruton Place
London
W13 6NQ
November 2024
