For many years the unwavering British love affair with Bordeaux has perhaps focused more on its wine than the exciting “neo-bistro” scene that has been taking hold. The likes of Bouchon Bordelais, Symbiose, Le Chicoula and the Burgundy-leaning L’Univerre (reviewed by yours truly about five years ago) are examples of how this city is easily on a par with Lyon, Marseille or even Paris. These mid-range restos are certainly giving the more fêted places like La Tupina a run for their argent.
Despite some minor misgivings, new-ish kid on the block Vivants is no exception. This is Tanguy Laviale’s follow-up to Ressources, itself a relative newcomer having just emerged from Covid in 2022. Ordinarily I’d be cautious about such unbridled expansion; to take more of a millennial than Gen-Z analogy, it’s like a film producer focusing on the DVD Extras before they’ve mastered the main feature. But in this case that confidence is understandable; Laviale’s 2014 opening Garopapilles garnered critical acclaim quickly, whilst Ressources was awarded a Michelin star within just four months, so he must be doing something right.
Over at his even younger venue Vivants Laviale has adopted the same simple menu structure (if a formule ain’t broke, don’t fix it). At the time of this visit you could choose three courses for €45, four for €60 or five for €75 – so at the punchier end of the apparently affordable middle ground. Also, some caveat emptor is needed here as you don’t know what any of the courses are going to be. Such mystery menus slightly irritate me, especially as it makes choosing a suitable wine a guessing game (though one mischievous waiter did at least give a vague hint as to what was going to come out of the kitchen).
On the food alone, Vivants is one of the better places to emerge in Bordeaux in recent times
Vivants suggests liveliness and in that sense the ambience matches its name, though the design of the Chablis Chic space doesn’t make for the most comforting experience: conspicuous coat stands in an otherwise minimalist room make it feel like the set of a Harold Pinter play. Also, I’m not sure whether they always like the lighting so stupendously bright in the evenings but I almost needed my sunglasses. No-one likes dining in an operating theatre; if anything it seems a Versailles-like extravagance to keep the lights on full blast. The solution is simple: invest in a dimmer switch or, better still, candles. It might even save electricity bills and we’d all be happier. Comfort issues aside, service was very good, professional and friendly, though on a couple of occasions just a teeny bit upselly.
Tuna tartare
Quail
Nut tart
For a delightful aperitif, a plate of thinly-sliced saucisson bellota (from acorn-fed Iberian pigs) layered like fish scales and a coupe de champagne slipped down the gullet far too easily.
Then onto the meal proper (which can only give an indication as the menu will have changed by the time anyone reads this), a bowl of lightly sautéed kale, spinach and chard with lemon, caperberries and oil-soaked bread in a sort of homage to panzanella (perhaps). I wasn’t quite sure what the dish was supposed to be – the explanation flew over me like a skein of geese migrating south – but the warm salad was balanced, virtuous and, well, vivant.
Next up, an artistic dish of tuna tartare on what looked like mini lilipads. Delicious but gone too soon. Then, quail legs with more vegetation were cooked beautifully but some more jus wouldn’t have gone amiss, and for a meal mostly lacking in protein the size was a little deflating. I was assured though that all the produce is organic and these ingredients were treated with great care.
A cheese course wasn’t part of the original plan but the same mischievous waiter from earlier was well-versed in arm-twisting tactics. It’s quite a skill to pre-empt a customer’s desires while not being sure of the answer – you have to admire both the gumption and assumption. The extra €15 dish of goat’s cheese and droplet of honey, whilst overpriced, was actually needed given the size of the foregoing dishes.
And to finish, a monochromatic nut tart may have looked about as appealing as bran flakes on Ryvita but it was actually lovely, especially with the ice cream on the side.
Whilst all executed very well, it still ended up being a good €120 per head for a succession of small plates (or as my companion put it, a canapé party). That said, Vivants wins a point or two back for having a bar area which welcomed a few late customers looking for a nightcap instead of turning them away. On the food alone, Vivants is one of the better places to emerge in the centre of Bordeaux in recent times, but more transparency about the menu and wine choices, and perhaps larger servings would improve it. Oh and candles.
13 rue des Bahutiers
33000 Bordeaux
France
November 2024
